Philosophy

Woke at 7am as Irene left the premises, had a quick fag and settled down to The Godfather Part ii. Just about got halfway through before caffeine cravings drove me out of the building. A couple of cortados later i strolled to Belgrano for breakfast and the matinee showing of a Good Shepherd (el buen pastor). Tasty licuado (banana and milk shake) and an unbelievably tedious film.

Another stroll back to Palermo to go book shopping, managed to find something i haven't read in the English section - Sophie's World (great so far). Time to find a street cafe for a well deserved salad and a spot of reading. All was going swimmingly, the beer was cold and the mediterranean salad had some seriously succulent sardines. Then 3 Americans sat down at the next table. I tried to block them out, but you just can't. A relatively young couple and some bloke who wouldn´t shut up and can only be described as a disgrace.

After a few minutes the whole bar was aware he was good at sex, was on his second marriage, had been in counselling for 15 years and now knew, and i quote, "i know this time that if we divorce i won't be the reason". I actually wrote this down so stunned was i by it's stupidity and arrogance. However, 10 minutes later i'd come to the conclusion he was right, there was no chance of him being divorced again, within 2 years (at the outside) his wife will have certainly blown his or her brains out. I showed amazing self restraint and left.

I plan to spend the rest of the day on my terrace with 1 1/2 litres of diet coke and my book.

Football

Barcelona 1 - Liverpool 2

Santiago

A five hour flight and short busride and i'm safely installed in The Happy House hostel in Santiago. Stunning building, wood floors, high ceilings, a lounge, a bar area with pool table and roof terrace. A tenner a night is a bargain for what is basically a posh hotel with dorms.

The next few days are spent lazing around recovering from Easter Island exertions. Just about managed to drag myself to the cultural centre which had a great photo exhibition including Cartier-Bresson shots of Santiago in the fifties, awesome.

Decided to get the bus to Mendoza, a mistake. The border crossing took 3 hours, a queue of twenty buses waiting to go through immigration with one bloke in a booth. Ouch. Recovered by quaffing a beer and visiting the casino. Tonight i'm off to Buenos Aires, a twelve hour bus ride, but full cama (first class airline equivalent) is only 50 dollars so should get a bit of kip. Killing time on the internet and have stumbled on Bushisms. This was a bit of a cracker:

President Bush: "Peter. Are you going to ask that question with shades on?"
Peter Wallsten of the Los Angeles Times: "I can take them off."
Bush: "I'm interested in the shade look, seriously."
Wallsten: "All right, I'll keep it, then."
Bush: "For the viewers, there's no sun."
Wallsten: "I guess it depends on your perspective."
Bush: "Touche.
--an exchange with legally blind reporter Peter Wallsten, to whom Bush later apologized, Washington, D.C., June 14, 2006

and this:

"I was not pleased that Hamas has refused to announce its desire to destroy Israel." --George W. Bush, Washington, D.C., May 4, 2006

and many, many more

Day 4 Part ii

Tongariki, this place was fully restored in the early 90's, previously it was just like the rest of the coast. All the Moai's were toppled in the late 1700's, no one knows why. Internal warfare, earthquake, tsunami, or and call me cynical but is it just a coincidence that this is when the Europeans showed up. Whether we toppled them i don't know, we definitely intoduced small pox and slavery - decimating the population (toppling would seem like a good way of subjugating), i'm so proud.

Anyway, it's restored, it's magnificent, just me. Haven't seen another cyclist, is there something i don't know? Is this a good idea? the next 10 or so kms are along the north coast to Anakena beach. More dirt tracks, more wind and my arse is distincty displeased. Finally reach the beach, it's taken 4 hours. There's a bar, i have a diet coke, a fruit salad and buy some more water. Lie down under a palm tree and try not to look at the hill i think i have to go up.

This hill goes on for a long way climbs about 350m and it's stupidly hot. I get off. Walk the last bit, my legs are on fire and the fag breaks probably weren't the best idea. However from here i'm told it's all down hill. Praise the lord. Stop at Mt Pui, the festival has moved here for the afternoon and the local lunatics are hurtling down what is a very very steep hill lying on their backs on what looks like a type of banana boat. Hilarious,, no one crashes but a couple do managed to veer off course and into the crowd.

The final 15 km are a joy and took about 25 minutes, you have to love down hill. Bought a six pack, watched the sunset, watched 50 15 year olds cavort about in hoola dresses and went to bed. I was totally shattered, my arse ..., my legs..., but all in all it was a very very good idea.

Easter Island, Day 4 Part i

Fully rested and ready for an adventure i set off to rent a bike. No deposit required, 8 quid all in and i'm off to the mini-market. 6 litres of water and a few sarnies later my backpack is heavy, it's 9.30 am and it's already v hot and v humid. Is this a good idea?

The ride out of town is gently uphill on paved roads, easy and no traffic. To follow the coast and see the sights you are forced off this luxury onto dirt tracks. My seat is hard, is this a good idea? 5kms later and you hit the coast, wonderful views and the road isn't too bad. No hills either just gentle undulations sweeping up the coast. Brilliant.

The first two sites are ahus (ceremonial platforms) with their Moai scattered about in the vicinity. A tragedy, forlorn looking fellas not best pleased with being face down in the dirt. The next 15 kms are into a brutal headwind, it's getting hotter and i've already drunk 3 litres, is this a good idea?

My legs are starting to get the hump, my shirt is soaked and i reach the quarry. A volcanic hill where they carved the Moai straight out of the hillside. 300 or so of these fellas are scattered about at various stages of development. Stunning. All the ones on the hillside are about 10m high. The head 4m and the body, often sunk into a pit, is 6m. Just wonderful. Walk around for an hour or so and my legs and arse are glad to have escaped the bike. The next attraction is visible from the crest of the hill. Ahu Tongariki, 15 Moai in a row, about 2 km away and that is part ii

Easter Island

Day of rest, bit of blogging, a few postcards, the museum. Tomorrow it's time for the east coast. A Mountain bike is necessary, don't fancy another brutal hike.

Have to admit to feeling exremely pleased with myself at the mo. Coming here was a seriously good decision.

Most of the Moai were toppled, this fella is having a good old lie down, alot are in pieces - a tragedy.

Easter Isand, aka Isla de Pascua, aka Rapa Nui

Day Three

West coast. There's a good four hour trek up the west coast returning inland via a couple of Moais. It's hot, humid and my backpack is heavy - 6l of water. The walk up the coast is mind blowing, i keep on going, i've missed the turning, where am i? No idea. Thankfully a geezer doing a very good impression of Omar Sharif appears, sans camel and desert but heyho. He informs me i've gone 3 miles too far. Bollocks. I point to the hill and ask if i can walk up there, you have to stick to paths. He says no, but i should do it anyway and at the top i'll hit a path, no one will know and he says the views are amazing.

Tresspassing, another first for me. It's 500m up, it takes awhile but my backpack's weight is lessening. The view at the top covers all the island, the many volcanoes, and 360 degress of pacific nothingness. Awesome. Sit down, have a fag and listen to my i-pod - heaven.

The town seems miles away. Mainly because it is. Follow the path down and bump into a group of seven Moai. Speechless. A woman is selling mini pineapples. I've got no food so buy two. Here the cut the skin off and you eat it whilst holding the green planty top (what's it called?). Gorgeous. It then takes another 4 hours to get back. 8 1/2 hours and approx 24 miles, my legs feel fine, i'm either in shock or very fit (for me).

Another sunrise, but nowhere near as good. More ladies dancing, more beer and more kebabs. It doesn't get any better. It's Istanpool revisited.

Easter Island

Day Two photos. The volcano, the cemetary and birdlife.

Rapa Nui

Day Two.

Wake up, wonderful fresh pineapple juice for breakfast. Cecilia gives me a couple of maps and a guide. Decide to cover the south of the island. Head for Ranu Kau Volcano. This beauty has a crater lake that resembles one of Monet's Water Lilies. It took 2 hours climbing upto it, it's humid and i've already drunk two litres of water. I then get completely lost, not many sign posts round here. This results in a four hour yomp through forests, along the coast with not a person about. Mr Mcmenamin introduced me to the joys of wandering off in random directions, it's brilliant.

I am now knackered, it's 6ish when i finally reach my guesthouse. A couple of quick beers follow and a nap. The sun sets at 9pm. It's only a 15 minute walk for the best view point. The photos say it all. The cemetary on the way is very sad, not much life expectancy by the looks of it.

The first Moai you see is a wonderful moment, like you first Iceberg or whatever. They amaze, puzzle and overwhelm, love these fellas.

After the sunset it's festival time. Skewers of meat, loads of beer and 40 women sashaying their hips in hoola skirts. A perfect day.

Isla de Pascua

Day One.

Arrived at 10pm, the airport is betwixt rolling hills that could quite easily pass for the the Golden Valley (Herefordshire). Cecilia was punting rooms, not cheap but then it was never going to be, half an hour later she's whisked me round the town and i'm quaffing a beer and ready for bed.