Valparaiso

Leave Mendoza at 10.30pm, luxury bus but it caters for locals, who are all a bit short, so there's the usual dearth of legroom. Just managed to get to sleep when we hit the border and am rudely awakened for the hour long farce that is passport and customs control. Chile is probably the only country that cares about customs, they x-ray everything. No problems, back on the bus, back to sleep.

Arrive at Viña del Mar at 6.30, a cool sea breeze, no buses and no Chilean cash. Cashpoint is working (miraculous), taxi - off to Valparaiso 15 minutes down the coast. Arrive at 7.30 wake up the daughter, she makes coffee and shows me the terrace, spectacular view, all is well. A nap follows.

Mad town built on the steep hills surrounding the bay. Wonderfully coloured houses, stunning views all over but the highlight is the ascensores. Fernaculars, i think we call them. Whatever, wooden boxes that are pulled up the side of the hill (steam or hydraulics were used, oil now. My legs are now hurting because i've been walking up the side of them trying to take pictures, there are about 14 of them scattered along the hillside. Reach the famous one and am about to get on it because i'm knackered. However, i am stopped in my tracks, it's been turned private, the price has quintupled and the locals are outraged. How do i know this? Posters everywhere "abuso" etc.The posters are in french, german, engish and spanish asking all tourists not to use it.

So i walk. Get to the top and am passing the entrance when a fat American and her friends emerge. They are agreeing amongst each other that the price hike has kept the locals off it and given them more space. Unreal, they needed a good kicking. Lost my temper, still probably shouldn't have said "you stupid f**king ignorant wan*kers why don't you f**k off back to where your from". Always knew the Oddbins customercare course would come in handy. Oh well, i felt better.

More walking, a massive Paella at about 4pm and then back to the hotel for the terrace views and a spot of reading, i have bought Pablo Neruda's memoirs (he lived her for a while). This is a beautiful town. Somewhat shabby, somewhat dodgy near the port area, lots of stray dogs, v steep hills, but i love it.

P.S Photos to follow photoshop permitting.